Welcome to Mad Alchemist!
Mad Alchemist is a website dedicated to homebrewing experimentation. Learn some new techniques or share your own success (and horror) stories about brewing beer.
I got all of my equipment for my indoor brew-in-a-bag experiment this week. My plan was to wait until Saturday to brew, but the wife wanted to go geocaching so I decided to rush it and brew Friday night. Rushing and failing to check for required equipment lead to one of the worst brew days ever, but I’ll recount some details of the experiment for those of you who are interested.
The main piece of equipment I bought for this experiment was a 30 quart (7.5 gallon) electric fryer with heating element. I insulated the interior pot with Reflectix to improve the boil, which proved a bit difficult because it has a drain valve and snag-inducing screws on the inside. The motivation for this purchase was the desire to move back to full boils. Since I currently live in a third floor apartment with a wood-decked balcony, propane is not an option.
That was really only the first half of my experiment. The second half was trying brew-in-a-bag for the first time (BIAB details here). This essentially requires a large bag with a very fine mesh. The motivation here was to see if I could be lazier on brew day by using one main vessel and just to experiment with the new(er) technique.
The electric fryer has a handy basket to put on top of the element and to put the bag inside. I also used the basket later to put the wort chiller inside so it didn’t touch the heating element. This lent itself well to brewing in a bag–I was able to use the hook on the basket to lift the bag out and let it drip. Next time I try this, I’m rigging something up to make it so the basket can rest on top of the kettle rather than hanging above it.
Let’s walk through the fateful brew day that will probably entertain you, and possibly educate you on what not to do. The first tip: Don’t brew before you’re ready. I usually like to check the day before I brew for all required equipment and ingredients so I can hit my LHBS before I brew if necessary. I didn’t do this since I was rushed, and was missing some things I needed.
Let’s start with the water. I pulled a “smooth” move with my brewing salts. I rushed to get the salts put together and ended up adding the calcium carbonate to the brewing water before the mash, which resulted in undissolved chalk. Note to self, for the third time: Only add calcium carbonate during the mash so the acidity will allow it to dissolve.
As for the mash itself, I got terrible efficiency–my bag was inadequate, to say the least. It didn’t cover the entire kettle (which had a greater circumference than anticipated). I only mashed for 60 minutes because I started so late, and failed to get more Iodine prior to brew session to test for starch conversion. I also suspect that my mash pH was low because of the undissolved chalk, even though my pH strips (yep, economy strips, not the good ones) told me it was right around 5.2. That said, the fryer was nice for applying heat when it failed to hold mash temperature (since the grains were in a bag in the basket that was on top of the heating element, it was safe to use).
Even though I had already essentially failed at brewing the Belgian Pale I set out to brew, I went ahead with it for the sake of experimentation and the wonderful story that I get to tell you.
Moving on to the boil… The electric fryer did not produce a vigorous boil with 5+ gallons of wort. It reached 208-210 F. The wort was turning over inside, so it was truthfully probably enough, but I’ll still see if I can improve the insulation a bit. I put the lid on for a few minutes 3 or 4 times to get the boil going vigorously (first to help precipitate the hot break before adding hops). The significant surface area of the wort in the kettle lead to high evaporation rate–I needed about 7 gallons of distilled water for a 9.00lb (grist) batch @ 90 minutes.
After the boil time was complete, I used my fancy new efficient wort chiller. I put it in my wort like any other chiller, attached it to the sink, and turned it on at the end of the boil. It seemed to be going so I dove into a section of How to Brew for the umpteenth time. I checked the temperature after 5 minutes and it had dropped about 20 degrees, which seemed a bit slow for how cold my water is, but went back to reading. 10 minutes later, I checked again, and it had gone down about another 20. This seemed slow again, so I tilted my pot lid up and found something very distressing…
The chiller was spraying unfiltered, cold tap water into my wort and likely had been for quite some time. Needless to say, MoreBeer got an email from me and I’m planning on getting a replacement from them. If nothing else ruined the batch, this could well have done it.
But, hey, I learned some stuff.
In short, the electric fryer is a little questionable as a complete BIAB vessel. At 30 quarts (and with the need to put the grains in the basket), I suspect once I get over 12 pounds of grain or so, it will be too much to mash. The vigor of the boil was lower than I’d like, so I’m going to have to try to improve that somehow. Maybe I’ll surround the Reflectix with some aluminum tape to make it slightly better.
It was fun in retrospect, though quite stressful and frustrating at the time. But, again, it was a great experiment. Any thoughts for improving BIAB in an Electric Fryer are more than welcome. Or, if you have questions, I might be able to answer them.
Cheers!
One of the biggest early improvements in my homebrews came when I started brewing with more than just extract. Extract kits are extremely easy and take very little time to brew. But, for about 10 minutes more effort and 30 total minutes more time, you can steep specialty grains before boiling the extract and make dramatic improvements in your beer, truly crafting something that is your own and plays to your palette. It’s really as easy as making tea!
What You Need
You don’t need much. You probably have everything you need already, except perhaps for an inexpensive grain bag.
- Grain Bags: Get yourself either a few disposable muslin bags or some reusable grain bags.
- Thermometer: You’ll also need a thermometer if you don’t have one. If you’re making beer, you should already have one.
- Crushed Grains: The grains must be crushed. You can almost always find them pre-crushed at your homebrew shop. If they’re not crushed, you can use a rolling pin and crush the grains in the bag–not to a powder, just crack them up.
- Water: You’ll need brewing-suitable water to steep your grains in. The ideal ratio here is to use less than 1 gallon of water per pound of specialty grain to prevent extracting astringent tannins (I use a ratio of 3 quarts of water per pound of grain).
The Process
Steeping specialty grains is easy! If you read through this twice and try it once, you’re an expert!
- Bring your water to anywhere between 150 and 170 degrees F. 160 is the sweet spot right in the middle.
- Put the crushed grains in your bag(s) and tie them off.
- Put your grain bags into the water and let them steep for 30 minutes.
- While the grains are steeping, swirl them around about every 5-10 minutes.
- After 30 minutes have passed, take the grain bag out and let it drip for a minute (then discard the grains).
- Crank the temperature up on your brew kettle and proceed with your normal extract-style brewing!
Extract Kits with Specialty Grains
Many of the kits from homebrew shops have specialty grains crushed and ready to go for you. You can find them at places like Northern Brewer, MoreBeer, or your local homebrew shop.
Grains That Can Be Steeped
Here are many of the grains that you can steep to provide more complex and delicious flavors in your beer.
- Cara-Pils/Dextrine
- Biscuit Malt
- Black (Patent) Malt
- Black Barley (Stout)
- Caraamber
- Carafoam
- Caramel/Crystal Malt – 10L
- Caramel/Crystal Malt – 20L
- Caramel/Crystal Malt – 30L
- Caramel/Crystal Malt – 40L
- Caramel/Crystal Malt – 60L
- Caramel/Crystal Malt – 80L
- Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L
- Caramunich Malt
- Carared
- Caravienne Malt
- Chocolate Malt
- Chocolate Malt
- Roasted Barley
I took this list from the BeerSmith site (I use BeerSmith as my primary tool for formulating recipes as well). It has descriptions of each of the grains listed as well as considerably more information about them: http://www.beersmith.com/GrainList.htm
Any grain listed on that site that has a “No” under the “Must Mash” column can be steeped. Yeah, you can do a lot of experimentation to find the perfect beer without spending the additional effort of partial mash or all-grain brewing.
Summary
Steeping specialty grains before brewing your extract-based beer is quick and easy. It only takes an additional 30 minutes, of which you have to concern yourself with 5-10. And, you’ll be brewing much better, fresher-tasting beer that you’ve crafted yourself and can call your own. Cheers!
Since everyone has their own way to brew and the ingredients and targets should reveal all that is necessary, I’m not going to go terribly in-depth about how to brew this beer. What I will give you is a list of ingredients used and a quick description of the final taste.
It’s a dark, sweet, full-bodied, and deceptively dry sweet stout with chocolate, coffee, and hazelnut flavors due in large part to additions in the secondary. The ingredients I’m listing are for a 5 gallon all-grain batch, but it can be easily converted to extract (with specialty grains) by replacing the Maris Otter with an English extract.
Ingredients
- Maris Otter (7 lbs)
- Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (2 lbs)
- Chocolate Malt (12 oz)
- Roasted Barley (3 oz)
- Lactose (1 lb)
- Hops: East Kent Goldings
- Yeast: Irish Ale
- Water: Residual Alkalinity (~200), Bicarbonate (~250), 2 to 1 Chloride/Sulfate
Ingredients in Secondary
- Cacao Nibs (8 oz)
- Hazelnuts (8 oz)
- Coffee Beans (8 oz)
Target Profile
- Original Gravity: 1.054
- Final Gravity: 1.014
- Color: 38 SRM
- Bitterness: 20 IBU
- Alcohol: 5.22%
- Carbonation: 2.0 Volumes
If you appreciate beer and/or brew it yourself, watch Beer Wars. It is an enlightening documentary on the beer industry as a whole, with a focus on the craft brewer trying to make it in the marketplace. It gave me a tremendous amount of respect for all independent brewers, especially Dogfish Head, and unfortunately made me dislike Anheuser–Busch InBev even more than I already do. It’s in about every format imaginable, so watch it.
Using dandelions in beer is rare, but not unprecedented. New Belgium has a rather tasty Dandelion Ale, so I decided to start working toward understanding the taste and bittering qualities of dandelion. Fresh dandelion greens are not generally available until spring, so I thought I’d see what dandelion roots were like first.
If you don’t want to read through my entire process, here’s a quick summary, prefaced by a note: First off, this is experimentation. I’m trying to share the results of my experiments as I go through with them, which means not all of them will yield positive beer-worthy potential.
Dandelion roots fall into the “not gonna brew with it” category. In short, they simply don’t taste very good. The bittering quality is poor, the aroma is off-putting, and the taste can be described as kissing someone who just finished smoking an entire pack of cigarettes at very high concentrations or shoving a stale-but-dirty sock in your mouth at half that concentration. That said, here’s what I did:
The Control – Hop Tea
- Boiled 32 oz. water with 1/16 oz. (~0.06 oz.) of 5% Alpha East Kent Goldings for 15 mins.
- At the end of the rather vigorous boil, I ended up with 16 oz. of Hop Tea.
The Experiment – (Roasted) Dandelion (Root) Tea
- Boiled 32 oz. water with 12 g. (~0.42 oz) of Organic Roasted Dandelion Roots for 15 mins.
- At the end of the rather vigorous boil, I ended up with 16 oz. of Dandelion Tea.
The estimated IBU (using Tinseth) of the Hop Tea at the 16 oz. concentration was 30.9. As you might expect, this is bile-bitter when not balanced by any malt, but I sampled it anyway. It tasted like bile. The Dandelion Tea was not nearly so bitter, but it tasted rather terrible as well.
I proceeded to make the call to dilute both back up to 32 oz., which brought the estimated IBU of the Hop Tea to 16.1. This is still very bitter, but it’s tolerable and provides enough liquid to test various dilutions. The Dandelion Tea still tasted quite bad, but it wasn’t so much bitter-tasting as stale and dirty-tasting.
It was at this point that I decided the experiment was over. Roasted Dandelion Roots are not a viable option (in my home brewery) to replace hops as a bittering agent, and I wouldn’t them as an aromatic because I don’t want their flavor or aroma anywhere near my beer.
But, I forged on with one more dilution. I diluted both to 64 oz., which brought the estimated bitterness of the Hop Tea to a not-unpleasant 8.0 IBU and the estimated grossness of Dandelion Tea to “tolerable.” I downed a glass of each to punish myself and poured the rest out.
In hindsight, I should have expected the Roasted Dandelion Root to be incompatible with beer. Firstly, a large amount of Dandelion Root is supposed to be beneficial to the liver, which is quite the opposite of what large quantities of beer is supposed to do to your liver. Secondly, I made a traditional cup of Roasted Dandelion Root Tea prior to the experiment and found it rather unpleasant to begin with.
Oh, well… You win some, you lose some. At least I learned something. I might try the same experiment using Dandelion Leaves from the local health store, or I might wait until I can get fresh Dandelion Greens from the supermarket and run my next test then. If anyone else has experience using Dandelions (in any form) in beer, I’d be very interested to learn from you.
Strong words? Because it’s the best fermentor I’ve ever used. Until now, I’ve only ever used either plastic buckets or glass carboys. I finally grabbed a Better Bottle 6 Gallon Carboy and I love it. Not because it’s super durable and lighter than glass. Not because it’s easy to clean. Not because it can be used as a pretty sweet drum to annoy your wife.
I love it because it makes aeration easy. Because it is durable and light, I got my best aeration of any brew with the Irish Red I brewed yesterday. How’d I do it? Easy…
I filled it up with 5.5 gallons of my sweet Irish Red, then I stoppered it and put it on its side on my counter. I held the stopper and neck and shook the crap out of the big end by rolling/sliding it. I had wort sloshing around like mad in there for several minutes with very little effort.
Then, I added the yeast and rocked it for a bit to mix the yeast in well. By morning, a wonderful layer of krausen had formed at the top of my vigorously-fermenting wort. As I mentioned, this is the best I’ve seen when pitching at 65° and it took very little effort whatsoever.
I can’t believe it took me so long to shell out $25 for something that will save me from so many backaches (I know, someday I’ll say the same thing about an aquarium pump for aeration).
I got turned on to a new method of all-grain brewing called “Brewing in a Bag” over at The Brewing Network. It’s an interesting approach that has been picking up steam in Australia for a few years, and it actually appears to have the potential to improve yield because you can use a finer crush than you would normally utilize.
It’s like a mini-mash that is scaled up to full all-grain volumes, and requires far less equipment than normal all-grain brewing (all you really need is a ~10 [some say 15] gallon kettle for full-volume boils and a very large mesh bag). I do worry when people talk about getting greater than 80% efficiency (and using too fine a grind) because of the increased potential for tannin extraction, but that should be easily remedied.
I’ve looked into it a bit and have found several links to help anyone interested out:
- A Guide to All-Grain Brewing in a Bag: From the Aussie forums that seem to have started it all. Includes a handy PDF booklet and some other links to a FAQ and some other resources. You’ll need to register there for access to the files.
- The Brewing Network Forums: A nice post describing how to brew in a bag, along with a lot of discussion on the topic.
- Brew in a Bag All Grain Brewing Method: A good blog post with pictures describing the method for BIAB.
- BIAB at BeerSmith: A post on the BeerSmith website that discusses BIAB and includes information about how to set your equipment up in their software.
I’m very interested in this brewing method, in part because I am lazy and I’m open to trying something faster and easier, and in part because it looks like people are getting better efficiency than most all-grain brewing gets. And, because it’s still pretty experimental.
I’ve wondered for a while about cold-steeping specialty grains to reduce the amount of astringency you get from them. I just read an article about it, and it seems that is indeed possible. Has anyone tried it? It seems like the main problem will be getting fermentables out of the specialty grains. It seems like you would have to sparge with hot water, thus potentially making your efforts moot.
All that said, I really want to try it. At some point, I’ll try something like Roasted Barley or Black Patent in a cold-steep for 24 hours, then will combine it with a simple Light DME in a small batch to see what it yields. Until then, I’m hoping to find someone with experience cold-steeping specialty grains to see their results.
Links to other discussions or articles on cold-steeping are more than welcome.
I love to experiment. I also love putting coffee in porters and stouts. It’s a flavor I find to be complementary. I recently posted about adding cold-brewed coffee to beer, and mentioned that I wanted to test boiling cold-brewed coffee to see what it tasted like. Well, I’m not very patient, so I already did it (note: I haven’t added it to beer yet–this is a standalone coffee taste experiment).
Ingredients
8 oz whole coffee beans
4 cups water (Brita-filtered in this case)
Process
- Coarsely crushed the coffee beans
- Put 4 cups of water in a large measuring cup
- Added the coarsely crushed coffee beans to the measuring cup in a muslin bag
- Put it in the refrigerator for 12 hours
- Pulled the bag out, let it drain for 15 minutes
- Steeped the bag again, then let it drain for 15 more minutes
- Split the solution in half (~16 oz in each measuring cup)
- Set Solution A aside
- Boiled Solution B in a pot for 10 minutes
- Rapidly cooled Solution B by immersing the pot in cold water in the sink
- Added Solution B back to its measuring cup, then diluted it back to 16 oz
- Put Solution A and Solution B in the refrigerator for 12 hours
Results
- After removing the two, I tasted them both.
- I first took a sip of water and sniffed my wrist to cleanse my palate.
- Then, I took a small sip of Solution A (the normal cold-brewed coffee)
- I then took another sip of water and sniffed my wrist to cleanse my palate.
- Then, I took a small sip of Solution B (the boiled cold-brewed coffee)
In short, they did not taste the same. Solution A tasted like I would expect cold-brewed coffee to taste. It was mild with very little bitterness whatsoever, and was quite pleasant. The real surprise was Solution B. It was stronger and fuller, but still had very little bitterness or astringency. It had a slightly-caramelized and roasted taste to it. My wife described it as such: “It tastes like coffee smells.” – Mrs. Hop.
Boiling cold-brewed coffee produces a solution that tastes unlike both cold-brewed coffee and normal hot-brewed coffee. It was quite delicious indeed, being both bolder than cold-brewed coffee and less bitter than hot-brewed coffee. I will certainly be introducing boiled cold-brewed coffee to my next batch of porter or stout.
